It doesn't seem that long ago that we booked our fourth trip to this volcanic island in the North Atlantic; clearly no need to state that we do like this rugged country! There's simply just something about the place, where else on earth do you get volcanoes, glaciers, hot springs, geysers, ice lagoons, a place where you can swim between two continents. And of course the cooler weather that we much prefer. Hot beach holidays are never on our menu.
It took us almost 2hrs to get to our destination, in fact all the destinations were within 1.5 miles of each other. The first port of call was the impressive Glanni Waterfall, worth a visit but don't think of Gulfoss or Dettifoss as it's far less 'grand', but beautiful in it's own right.
We left home at 2am heading to Manchester airport for the long trip ahead, arriving in Keflavik at just before 8:30am local time. And by a little after 9am we had picked up our rental car - a Maxda CX3 4WD automatic, and hit the road.
On our way up west we planned to make a detour to Barnafoss and Hraunfossar, two stunning waterfalls that we had visited previously but we wanted to see again. Hraunfossar never ceases to amaze us; a low level falls of water seeping out of a lava field; unique. Thankfully not as busy this time around so more time to spend just admiring the place.
So back down the road to Borgarnes to pick up the road north, and by around 4:30pm we arrived at the lovely cottage surrounded by autumn colours, and a bit of a sleet storm to welcome us back to Iceland. We were staying about 6 miles from the small coastal town of Stykkisholmur.
The first night we spent in the cottage, unpacking, Donna making soup, and to be honest I went to bed at 7pm as I wasn't feeling too well. Fingers crossed I'd feel better in the morning.
On day two after a steady morning we headed back south across the peninsula, for a fairly short hike of around 5 miles. And the weather today, raining and VERY windy. I can only imagine what it was like in the north of Iceland where there are weather warnings.
Our drive took us about an hour and we parked up near a farm and an campsite, then after having a sandwich we braved the weather and togged up. And it was really worth the hike through an area spattered with lava deposits and up to Elborg Crater. The last section up to the crater rim was a challenge, with chains fastened into the rock to help you make that last climb. It was worth it though, yes the weather could be better with more impressive views, but it didn't take too much away from the occasion.
Before heading back to drove about 20 minutes north and took the rough track down to Gerduberg Cliffs, an escarpment of about 1/2 mile of basal columns rising about 50ft. We also took the opportunity to drive a little further down the track to an old church backed by what looked like an old crater rim.
The trip back to the cottage was an hour or so, and a stop off along the way for some more fuel.
Onto day 3 and a couple of new places on the itinerary. Another drive down the road to Borgarnes, then onto Road 1 in a northerly direction. Most places outside of the capital area take longer to travel between than you might expect due to the scarcity of roads; of course the mountains do get in the way!
Only a 10 minute walk away was Paradise Hollow, a small coved area flanked by lava rock with a stunningly clear pool below a small drop of water. After about 15 minutes there we set off on a small walk around the area before heading back to the car.
It was a 5 minute drive to our next stop - Grabrok Crater. An amazing wooden path took us all the way to the top, with great views of the other craters in the area and the snow covered mountains. And I was really proud of Donna as she made it to the top despite her not being the best with heights - but she did it.
Just the drive home left, and the first part was a lovely road through the mountains, with awesome views. However, we then had over 50 miles on a gravel road back to the cottage. And after driving that, I will never complain about potholes again. It took is about an hour and a half, and before heading back to the cottage we peeled off the road and spent an hour or so in Stykkisholmur before heading back for tea. And fingers crossed for a clear night tonight....
And boy were we in luck, the KP index for the aurora was low at 2 on a scale of 1-9, however we did see them and it went on for a number of hours. We spent ages outside in the freezing cold under a clear sky just enjoying the dancing skies. And as a bonus, although not at it's best this time of year the Milky Way was right overhead. What a night,
I had expected to stay asleep a little later as we started our last full day near Stykkisholmur, given that we were up so late last night, However, up at 6am, and Donna was already there on the sofa as she'd been up for a while.
The weather forecast for today was a split one, a dry but cloudy morning, and then lots of rain coming in later in the day. So, we headed out at 9am and although we have been there a couple of times previously, we headed west over towards Kirkjufell hoping to get there before the hordes of visitors arrived.
We arrived around 9:30am and the car-park was full, but nothing like it would be in a hour or so when the trips from Reykjavik have made it up the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. We were there for over an hour, I took lots of photos as did Donna, but it was sooooooo cold. The wind was absolutely biting, but it didn't spoil the visit.
After leaving the area, we drove 10 minutes back along the road then parked up and walked the mile or so though a field to a small yet very tall waterfall called Grundarfoss. It was difficult walking up to it as the wind was right in your face and almost blowing you off your feet; but worth it. Luckily the rain held off until we arrived back to the car when a horizontal sleet storm started. As the weather was now expected to be poor for the rest of the day we headed back to the cottage for a relaxing and cosy afternoon and evening. And to be honest, a long drive ahead tomorrow over to Akureyri to a welcome rest.
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