A Chilling Experience - 13th July 2013

We'd pre-booked a boat trip out to the Farne Islands for today, however last night's weather forecast was spot on and we quickly made the decision to re-book for Wednesday as the forecast was much more positive. So, what to do today?

Having had a look around the internet; actually my Google Pocket where I had been popping things for the last couple of months, we opted for a trip inland to Chillingham Castle. It was a safe bet for a damp day, and we'd always been a little intrigued about the place after a TV series a couple of years ago where Chillingham figured heavily.


The drive across was only around 11 miles as the crow files, but took us close on 45 minutes as there is no direct route and roads this far north in Northumberland are narrow and winding. We arrived around 12:30 and first impressions were a little confusing, we took the sign off the main road but that didn't actually take us to the castle. As with many other visitors we found ourselves turning round near a church and then hunting to find the entrance. There was an entrance there but that had a sign next to the gate stating that it was for residents only. Eventually we found the entrance after speaking to some other people who were also looking for it; it was actually a second sign off the road about 1/4 mile further along.


So to the house. Well if you are expecting somewhere polished and could I say 'a little staged', then this isn't it. Don't expect a glossy guide book, beautifully decorated rooms, and priceless antiques. What you get, and we loved it, was a castle that just over 30 years ago was in ruins and is now full of 'stuff' that Sir Humphry Wakefield has collected, Yes there are items that cost thousands of pounds, family heirlooms and the like, but alongside these you will find all sorts of stuff; it's packed like an antique and curiosity shop. It really is a refreshing change.


There's a small tea-room in the castle, not a great choice of food and the food itself was quite ordinary, but it all just felt right considering the whole experience. A lovely big log fire in there just managed to keep the cold from the draughts at bay, and lots of items hung on the walls to talk about as you sat waiting for your food.

And the booklet you get as a guide. it's just a load of sheets of A4 stapled together but the content leaves most guide books in the shade. It's the story of the castle and contents in the words of Sir Humphry, so you get all the emotion behind it, the funny stories and all of his memories. We really enjoyed our visit, unfortunately however due to the weather we weren't able to take in the lovely gardens and the woodland and lake walks; maybe another time.

After a couple of hours back at the cottage, and yes a little nap for an old bloke like me, we headed the couple of miles up the coast to Seahouses for a curry at the Indian Brasserie. A quiet end to a nice day.


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